The Pelopennese
- Maya Kurien
- Dec 26, 2024
- 4 min read
Greece has long been on my bucket list. From food, history, to culture, I could go anywhere in the country and there's no way I'd be disappointed. That said, the Pelopennesian peninsula is not what came to mind whenever I thought of visiting Greece. I ended up in the area to reunite with a friend during June 2024 and I'm glad I did.
First, though, some tips.
Greece in the summer is HOT. It is very dry, but a Greek summer is no joke. Remember that you're on the Mediterranean and the water isn't always potable. So bring a disposable water bottle to refill on the road, and/or buy plenty of bottled water on the highway. Also pack a big hat if you can, lots of sunscreen, and sunglasses.
Cars are older and the AC isn't enough to compensate for the heat so make sure you can cool yourself down. Greek drivers are also aggressive. Make sure you go with a great defensive driver who is licensed to drive in Europe, and do some research on cars. We used Europcar, but you can also use any international chain.
Most places now take credit card, but having Euro on you is still a good idea. I think 200 euro in change to start with is a good idea as you'll need money for tips, tolls, and potentially purchases in smaller places.
Comfy open toed sandals - these Dr. Scholl's gladiator-style sandals have great support, a good grip, and are great value for money.
Suitcases - make sure you can lug yours up stairs and over cobblestones. I wouldn't recommend packing heavy.
Towels and water shoes - on pebble beaches, you'll be particularly glad you have both. It's easy to slip on the fresh moss and smooth pebbles in the Mediterranean.
Learn a little Greek before your trip. The highway signs are in English but even knowing basic pleasantries and nouns like "water" can go a long way. It will be even more helpful on country roads and in smaller towns where there aren't English signs and people only speak Greek.
We started in Athens where we picked up a car and drove straight across the Corinthian isthmus. Past Corinth, we drove down straight to Mezapos in Mani, on the Mediterranean Sea. We stayed at Ippola Boutique Hotel which was perfect for getting over jetlag and enjoying downtime. The staff are friendly, the food is delicious, and the hotel is just uphill from Chailikia Beach. The pebble beach is in a protected cove, and at times is so deserted that it can feel like your own private beach. The salt water is very fresh, and you'll have to share it with schools of fish, crabs, sea birds, and moss. That said, it does feel like you're in your own little secluded paradise. The country roads are small, and there are plenty of other beautiful villages and hotels in that area if you don't want to stay at Ippola in particular.
From Mezapos, we stopped in Areopoli for lunch. Areopoli is one of many beautiful villages in Mani, and of course throughout the Peloppennese. Areopoli is small, and is definitely a tourist spot for those driving elsewhere. But it also attracts locals and has a few nice stores with handicrafts if you're interested. From Areopoli we drove through the reminder of Mani and over to Nafplio.
We spent a few nights in Nafplio, a charming, gorgeous port and seaside town in a different part of the Pelopennese. We stayed at the Grand Sarai Nafplio, which is located right in the Old Town. Be warned that almost all of Nafplio is a historic district meaning you cannot park in the city center. Pack accordingly and be prepared to haul your luggage up many stairs and across many a cobblestone. Nafplio is known for handicrafts. One store I liked was Metallagi, an on site metallurgy and jewelry maker where I picked up a beautiful but reasonably priced set of earrings. Armiriki is another place to pick up great handprinted t-shirts that are made in Nafplio. If you have a lot of money to spend, go to Agnythes which is a store owned by master loomer Maria Gonidou. The clothes are beautifully designed and high quality, but have a steep price tag. The best meal I had in Nafplio was at Folia, one of several tavernas on the main port. The garlic shrimp and rice was delicious and fresh. We paired it with the buttered pasta which was also amazing despite the simplicity of the whole meal. The wine is really good not to mention cheap. If you're looking for a cheap but delicious meal, it's easy to find in Nafplio and Folia is a nice taverna to sit at (as is Kellari).
After a few days, we drove to Mycenae with a stop at Kosmos Bakery for breakfast and coffee. The historical site of Mycenae is famous as the home of Agamemnon during the Trojan War, and played a critical role in Ancient Greek history. About a 40 minute's drive from Nafplio, Mycenae is golden in the sunlight and can be accessed for less than 10 euro. If you arrive within an hour of the site opening you'll basically have the whole site to yourself, great weather, and gorgeous views of the olive groves for miles.
On my next trip to the Peloppenese, I'd go in the spring or the fall - the heat is unbearable during the day so activities end up being restricted to early morning or late at night.
Epidavros - ancient amphitheater dating back to 4th Century BCE.
Olympia
More time in Mani
Back to Nafplio
Been to the Peloppenese? Tell me what else should be on my list!
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